The square armhole with a gusset was a common feature in kurtas, choghas, and achkans seen Mughal courts in India. An angular geometric shape prevented the wastage of fabric while cutting. 
 
We reimagined the collar and fit of the guayabera shirt, also known as a "Mexican wedding shirt" or "Cuban shirt," with the square armhole and an laced insert of smaller Kalamkari panels.